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Soil preparation can begin as early as fall, which allows organic matter and amendments to settle and work into the soil over winter. However, late winter and early spring are also ideal times to begin, as long as the soil is workable and not frozen or overly wet. Work in compost, perform soil tests, and clear debris well before planting to give amendments time to activate.
Soil is ready when it is moist but not soggy, crumbles easily, and warms up after the last frost. Check that previously added amendments like compost are well incorporated and that the bed is free of weeds, rocks, and leftover plant matter. If the soil forms clumps that don’t break apart, let it dry a bit more before further digging or planting.
Key organic additions include well-aged compost, leaf mold, or composted manure, all of which improve soil structure, enrich nutrients, and promote beneficial soil microbes. Spread 1–3 inches across the bed surface and lightly mix into the top 6–8 inches for best results. Avoid adding uncomposted materials or fresh manure just before planting, as these can rob soil nitrogen or introduce disease.
For established beds, deep tilling may not be necessary each season unless soil is compacted or depleted. Use a garden fork or broadfork to gently loosen and aerate the top layer, which protects soil structure and reduces disturbance to soil organisms. For new beds, deep digging (8–10 inches) helps roots grow better, but over-tilling annually can degrade soil quality over time.
Conduct a soil test every 1–3 years or whenever you notice poor plant growth, unusual leaf color, or suspect imbalances in nutrients. Early spring or fall is a good time since you’ll have time to adjust pH levels, add necessary nutrients, or address deficiencies before planting. Many county extension offices and nurseries offer inexpensive soil testing services along with recommendations for amendments.